Bigger is always better when it comes to bearded dragons. However, for starters, a 90cm tank will suit a dragon until approximately one year of age. The dragon must have enough space to turn around in the enclosure with ease. Thereafter, you can then transfer to a bigger cage. Make sure your dragon has plenty of floor space. A narrow cage is not ideal. Driftwood and dry grape vine are non-toxic to dragons and a great addition to your tank.

PLEASE NOTE THE FOLLOWING VERY IMPORTANT INFORMATION.

Bearded dragons are solitary creatures and do not do well when cohabited. Breeders and keepers recommend that each dragon get their own tank/cage. Also, if you have more than one dragon, make sure that they cannot see each. Never take two males out at the same time as they will fight each other for dominance.

Your beardie tank needs a heat gradient including a hot spot to bask and a cooler side. The hotspot for babies and juveniles should be between 39°C and 42°C. After their first birthday, you can drop the temperatures to between 36°C and 39°C. Basking spot temperature should be measured with a temperature gun.  The beardie should have a platform to bask on as well as a something to climb to, should they get too hot.

Heat and UV are critical for your bearded dragon to stay healthy. Your heating options are, frosted heat globes which emit heat and light, or a ceramic heat emitter (CHE) which does not emit light. The cool side should be around 26°C.

Your dragon needs 10.0 UVB light to help it process calcium and to prevent Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD). UVB allows the synthesis of Vitamin D3, which helps absorb calcium. Two options of UVB globes are suggested. The first option is the reptile pet 10.0 UVB Spot LED. The second option is a 10.0 UVB fluorescent tube. When installing the tube make sure that it is long enough to cover at least ¾ of the tank.

These tubes have varying life spans. Some last 6 months, some last longer. It is suggested that you purchase a UVB meter and test the UV output monthly. UVB and heating globes are the most expensive part of owning bearded dragons, but it is vital for their health. Taking your bearded dragon outside during sunny days is recommended. Natural UV is greatly beneficial to them. However, make sure that they do not overheat and have access to shade.  

If you install a CHE, it is advisable to control the temperature of the CHE using an STC1000 thermostat. Be very careful to purchase a genuine STC as the cheaper imitations tend to fail. An alternative to the STC100 is the DT-120 dimmerstat. This device has a timer that controls the lights and heating. It is also advisable to purchase two digital temperature sensors: one for the cool side and one for the hot side.  A temperature gun is also highly recommended.

Bearded dragons come from the arid deserts of Australia. Humidity needs to remain under 30% day and night. Be mindful of temperature readings at night as they typically rise. Higher humidity can lead to respiratory infections.

Beardies need at least 12 hours of heat and UVB daily. Day time temperatures need to be hot (as above). It is good to allow natural nighttime temperature drops in bearded dragon enclosures. Therefore, heating is not necessary unless temperatures drop below 15°C. In some instances, humidity spikes occur at night. In this case, increase the nighttime temperatures by a few degrees to dry out the air and decrease humidity to acceptable levels. This can only be done with a CHE as it is not advisable to have light at night.   

The choice of substrate is also an important decision. Options include non-slip tile, vinyl, newspaper or unprinted paper or a combination of peat/top soil and kids play sand. The tank must be cleaned often as a dirty tank can lead to illness. With regards to the sand option, this is not advised for baby/juvenile dragons. They can ingest it and if husbandry is not correct, it can lead to impaction.

Dragons need a variety of greens and bugs to keep them well fed and healthy.

Dragons under a year old need to have an 80% bugs 20% greens. Young dragons might not eat their greens often, but it is advised that you offer them daily. Feeding greens in the morning and bugs in the afternoon is ideal. When feeding your dragon, feed as many bugs as they can eat in 10-minutes then stop feeding.

Once your dragon turns one, the percentages switch around and you then feed 80% greens and 20% bugs. Offer greens daily and bugs 2/3 times a week. Please note that overfeeding bugs can lead to weight issues which in turn can lead to fatty liver disease.

All food should be sprinkled with calcium powder.

Greens that are safe for beardies include: kale, rocket, mustard greens (seasonal), mulberry leaves, spinach coriander, parsley, mint, basil, watercress, nasturtiums, cactus pad and micro greens. Staple greens include kale and rocket. Other greens need to be given every second or third day. Do not feed lettuce (especially iceberg) as it holds no nutritional value. You can feed endive but not as a staple.

Veggies include, carrots, butternut or pumpkin, peppers (red or green), cucumber (not often as it’s a diuretic), green beans, peas and baby marrow.

Never feed avo, mushrooms, onions, rhubarb, eggplant, garlic, potatoes or any citrus fruit as they are toxic.

Carrots and butternut can be given daily. Peppers every second to third day and cucumbers once a week. If your beardie is not eating veggies, you can place a few mealworms or bugs to make the salad “move” and encourage them to eat it.

Fruit should not be given often and used as a treat only. Once a month is sufficient as it could cause problems with teeth and mouth rot. Safe fruits include banana, apple, grapes, strawberries, blueberries and watermelon (again not too much as it’s mostly water)

Safe bugs include, dubia roaches, turkestan roaches, crickets, mealworms, superworms (not too many and older dragons only as they are high in fat), black soldier fly larvae and flies and silkworms. Mealworms turn into beetles. These are edible too. Never leave crickets inside your beardie’s tank as they can bite and usually attack the tail. This can result in the tail needing to be amputated by a vet. Some beardies do not eat dried food. Stay away from pellets as they do not have the ideal nutritional value. Bugs can be placed in an escape proof bowl (ceramic bowls work well too but make sure your dragon can get in and out of the bowl).

Feeders should not be bigger than the space between their eyes.

Bugs can be purchased from the following websites: The Silkworm Shop, United Reptiles, Feeders for Africa. Get 15% off your first online order from The Silkworm Shop when you use the following referral code:  REFSAEXYU2Z2N

You might never see your beardie drink water, but clean water in a shallow water dish is necessary in their tank. A bowl that is too big or too deep can influence the humidity level in your tank.

Beardies shed their skins as they grow. They don’t shed all at once but will shed different body parts at different times. Beardies are dry shedders so should not be placed in water when shedding. Water can get under the loose skin and cause infections. Do not pull the shed off your dragon. This can damage the underlying scales.

However, if you need to clean your dragon, you can soak them in a shallow escape proof tub and use a soft childrens size toothbrush to clean him. Water should not be hotter than 32°C and should be measured with a thermometer.

You can soak your dragon once a week in water. You can add “Beardie Bath” to their water as some dragons will drink when soaked. However, if they mess their water, remove them immediately so that they don’t drink the contaminated water. Do not touch or lift your dragon while it is drinking. This can cause it to choke on the water. If it does choke, place it in a head down position and let the water drain out of their mouth and throat. Keep an eye on the dragon for the next few hours to make sure that it has recovered. A vet visit will be recommended should your beardie display any signs of stress or illness.